The new dock and harbor is much safer than the old, mess of a dock that used to be in place. The drunks that make downtown Juneau so charming are still here, and the locally owned businesses that were able to roll with the changes are still in business and are doing better than ever.
From all I have learned about Hyder, Alaska, it appears to be a great place to visit and possibly live. It has the best of two worlds -- one, it can be reached by road and then it in nestled in a remote part of Alaska. It is the farthest south that an Alaska town can be reached by highway!
Petersburg itself is a real gem, if only because it has not been ruined by the hordes of suspicious day trippers that the cruise ships disgorge, ruining Juneau, Sitka, and other places. Petersburg retains its isolated, small town feel and is surprisingly Scandinavian, even today.
Anchorage hotels tend to double in price on June 1; however the off-season before then and after the US Labor Day weekend can be cold and many attractions don't gear up until June. Fun bike paths and moose in town. B&Bs can be a happy medium between the $$$ hotels and some of the less attractive hostels (~$80 in '05), For rest of state, Denali fills up early so plan ahead for that park if you can. Backcountry camping is usually available. If you bus to Denali, the train back is fun. McCarthy/St. Elias is uncrowded; more difficult to get to w/o a car. Small boat day tour to glaciers in Seward is recommended and easy to get too and a night there is fun.
Seward is a nice little town. The hike at Hardings ice field is a damn good day hike. Reasonably strenuous and we saw a bear and 2 cubs. We had a great lunch at Harbour Dinner Club. Surprisingly, sea food is expensive in Alaska. Expect to pay $20 per head. Another thing to do in Seward is the resurrection Bay Cruise. We went all the up to the Aialik Glacier. Lots of wildlife enroute... bald eagles, puffins, killer whales (we saw about 20!), humpback, lots of other birds, and also sea lions... many :).
Anchorage is a world class city. One of my 5 favorite cities in the US.
Sheep Mountain Lodge in Palmer … The Sheep Mountain Lodge & Hostel is made up of a number of small log cabin lodges and a log restaurant. Most of the cabins are rented out to at regular prices, but one or two are reserved for hostellers. The one I was in had 3 sturdy bunk beds in it. I had two roommates. The cabin was clean and warm. The restaurant was fantastic! Nothing like sitting down to a good meal after driving all day. The hostel also had a great view of the mountains (of course!).
Denali Mountain Morning Hostel & Lodge in Denali Park … This hostel is beautiful! It's especially impressive when it is taken into account that your hosts built most of it themselves. The cabins give a nice, homey feeling, and there's always food in the fridge. Your hosts, Ben and Becky, are the friendliest people you'll meet in Alaska, and they do all they can to make your stay as enjoyable as possible. It's a must-see place!!
Alaska Island Hostel - Petersburg in Petersburg … Like the Eagle View Hostel in Ketchikan, the Bunk and Breakfast is a great example of what makes small-scale home hostels so nice. The dorms and living room are comfortable, and Ryn, the owner, provides fresh-baked goodies for breakfast and plenty of information about things to do in Petersburg. (As a side note, I thought Petersburg was by far the nicest of the Southeast Alaska towns; it doesn't get much cruise ship traffic, so you're spared the crowds, and the mountains are gorgeous.)
Huck Hobbit's Homestead in Slana … The owners are very personable. The hostel requires a small hike to get to, but that was exactly what I wanted. The facility is a traditional Alaskan-style log cabin, with beautiful burl architecture and lots of wood. Skins also adorn the walls. There is no electricity, but there is a gas stove and light, and the owners had a roaring fire in the wood-burning oven with a large pot of hot water waiting for us when we arrived. There is also no running water, but an outhouse and gravity shower are available.
Bear Creek Cabins & Hostel in Haines … I have stayed here on 2 different occasions. I like it because it has cabins and when there are 2 to 4 of you, you pretty much get your own cabin. The facilities are older but they were clean. Staff were great.
Seaside Farm Hostel in Homer … Very laid back and great views from camp sites.
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