Along California's coastline and a few blocks from Santa Cruz's Municipal Wharf, Beach, and Boardwalk is HI-Santa Cruz Hostel at the Carmelita Cottages. Hostel Society members, among a few community organizations, and the writer Rick Hyman did much to preserve "bits and pieces" of the hostel's history. Today it is a part of the National Historic Registry and is located in a historic neighborhood called Beach Hill.
The atmosphere at HI-Santa Cruz is as mixed as its history. There's an eighteenth century vibe -- a cluster of quaint-sized cottages is also called Carmelita Cottages, a restored Victorian that exists within a countrylike but beach reality. The hostel, nestled in a garden cultivated by one of many previous owners, and established circa 1872-1910, is less than two acres. Those interested in beach life, beauty, and history will enjoy staying here, and will see how the historic landmark evokes memory and time. You sort of get the feel that the past and its residents are hostelling with you.
Getting to the hostel and if driving, take Hwy 17 going south from out of Los Gatos. This turns into 17 and you should watch for falling rocks, crossing deer fog, construction, and cars that suddenly stop. But, if you're taking local transportation, it can be done by taking a local bus that goes into downtown Santa Cruz Metro Station. Traverse the neighborhood then walk towards the San Lorenzo River or take the direct ten-minute walk to the hostel. The actual property is hidden behind a grove of trees, and while you expect to see one street address for the hostel, you'll see a few. The good news -- a white necklace of lights that dot across a black iron gate is your guide. This will lead you to the hostel's office where you'll find a friendly staff that's either laid back or busy.
The cottages are named after owners from the eighteenth and nineteenth century -- Lottie Sly, Captain Roberts, Captain Dame, and Johnson. And since cottages are identified and accessed by a system of letters, names, and codes, not knowing this is confusing. You'll receive a tiny piece of paper, which for the time being is like your whole life and if you lose it, you lose your sense of security, if not your bed. One hosteler reported the confusion of finding another hosteller in her bed.
Some of the rooms sleep about six to a room with standard bunk beds that use mattresses or pads -- both are comfy. During the summer months, since there is little ventilation coming from the small-sized windows, rooms can run high in temperature. Housekeeping is the good kind of clean, but if you're the "don't touch my feet type," you'll want to wear slippers in the room that has carpeting. But in the other cottage -- the Johnson Main House, a lovely cottage where you'd expect to feel sand on the hardwood floors, you won't. Linens are included in the price (but not the towel). And if you really want to feel clean, you'll leave your bed possessions at home and use theirs because sleeping bags are not allowed. Alcohol is not allowed either.
If you're the social or indoor type you'll be glad because you have access to a piano, games, a place for quiet reading, and you can leave a book or take one as you go. You can get access to the internet, but it's limited because it's also shared with the laundry facilities -- for a small fee, you can wash and dry a minimal amount of clothes. Although the hostel offers a large-size storage space for surfboards and bikes, you'll need a sturdy combo lock for the smaller-size lockers, and it's best to leave any valuables at home because the lockers appear vulnerable. And where the environment is concerned, the hostel really makes a good conscious effort to conserve and preserve, as there's even a room for recycled goods.
Inside Lottie Sly Cottage, two separate but not equally shared co-ed bathrooms are made of tile. They are attractive, small, and clean, with bathroom windows that are held by two rusty chains, which hang inward rather than out. This is a good thing because otherwise it would land on your head. In between the two dorms and bathrooms, a sitting room (with sunroof and a picture that says, "A La Place Clichy") waits for you to sit under it while natural light spills into the space. This, along with the cottages' off-white and bone-colored walls, helps to offer the kind of comfort you might get at home.
While you're out and about, if you go out, pick up a Santa Cruz newspaper near the boardwalk or downtown at the kiosk stands. Then head to the kitchen that's restored with fully-equipped amenities, encouraging cooking and socializing. It may be the most attractive hostel kitchen, because of its matching wood cabinets, table, chairs, and hardwood floors. You will find other guests sitting outside underneath a cove of trees on the dining deck, which is more like a patio cafe, with a cup of tea, coffee, or a book. The hostel has good porch space for reflecting, sitting, and socializing. There's also wrought iron and wooden benches, a slab of stone, and select chairs in the historic garden.
If you're into amusement rides, surfing, biking, or playing on the beach, the hostel's Beach Hill neighboorhood offers great sunsets. Since Santa Cruz is a popular place, for more than surfing, making reservations is recommended, and the longest amount of time you can stay at Carmelita Cottages is three days. Standard check-in begins at five p.m. to 10 p.m. and since the lock-out is roughly six hours, and you can't return to the hostel grounds, planning your trip to the local and distant sites is advised. It depends on the time of year you arrive where you'll find the weather, especially during summer months hot, but the sea breeze offers relief. Like any beach town, coastal weather varies, temperatures drop and the Pacific stirs a mix of sun, moisture and fog.
As part of its past, Carmelita Cottages is like any other living memory where you're always a part of it. All you have to do is to sit on any one of the porches and consider how any of the previous owners may very well be watching over you.
Reviewed by Iye for Hostelz.com-- Exclusive Hostelz.com Review
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